Monday, May 19, 2014

The Rest of Iraq and a Little Bit of Spain

Tues May 13th

I feel SO MUCH BETTER today! Thank goodness! I guess I just needed to sleep for 24 hours. Ugh. I am still sad that I missed out on the trip yesterday, oh well. Such is life!

Last night I knew that there was another voice in the kitchen – but did not know who it was. This morning I met Daliah – she is a student at NYU and is part of the NYU Center for Global Affairs in the peacebuilding program, She is here for the conference and then will stay for an extra 2 months to do work here. It is also really cool because her parents are both from Iraq and she knows Kurdish!

Today was the first day of the Peace Building Conference that brought me to Iraq. It is held in a beautiful facility at the conference center at the University of Duhok.

At first, when we decided to submit an abstract for a paper, we didn’t fully understand what a big deal this conference is! We are so honored that we were chosen to come and participate in this conference! And it is REALLY special that along with being on a panel to present our paper they have allowed for us to have a 90 minute time slot to do an interactive workshop where we will be able to give the participants a taste of what Applied Theatre practices are.

When we arrived at the conference we were given headsets. The whole conference is being translated from Arabic to English and English to Arabic. The translators are pretty awesome they are able to go back and forth between the languages – it is really great that we can bring so many people together to talk about building peace in Iraq. There are many people here who are invested in this country for diverse reasons in their varied specialties.

After the conference Nadia, Michelle, Cooper, Brisa and I went to the Market. We found baby Cooper a stroller – He was so much happier to sit and go around instead of being held or having to walk.

Chai tea is HUGE here in Iraq. EVERYONE drinks Chai. For breakfast, in the middle of the day, after meals, etc.  I noticed in the market that there are men that walk around with a tray and sell tea to the vendors.

They have beautiful tea sets that they use here that are very specific to Iraqi culture. I only drink herbal tea, so I wont have any chai in Iraq. But I want to get a tea set to bring home so I have a special Iraqi gift in my home and I can use it for herbal tea! 

So the tea that is sold to the vendors is brought around in real glass teacups and saucers.  Later on I saw a man walking through the market with an empty try and he was clinking 2 saucers together. He was calling for his cups back. The vendors that had bought tea from him would bring him the cups as he walked by.

I LOVE seeing things like this! The systems that are in place and how things run and work is very interesting to me. It speaks a lot to the culture of the people here. Speaking of…

After the market we went to dinner at a restaurant close to our hotel. Women and families have to eat upstairs and then men eat downstairs. So interesting the cultural differences. Women here in Iraq do not have a public face. You really don’t see them much. At the Market yes- because they are shopping- or going to and from places, but mostly they stay at home. The vendors at the market are all men as well. They women do not work there.

This is another reason why I think that this conference is such an amazing thing! There are quite a few women who are presenting papers both from Iraq and other countries: United States, Pakistan, and England. I think it is especially important that women from Iraq were presenting. There is still a lot of progress to be made, things like women’s rights and gender equality are very slow moving in some cultures. Every woman that goes on to achieve higher education and does things like presents at a conference such as this - I believe that every little step counts!

Nadia Michelle, Brisa, and I worked really hard tonight putting together the presentation for tomorrows panel! I put together the power point. We were up around midnight finishing up. Michelle and Brisa went to bed and Nadia and I went downstairs to the reception desk to ask them if we could print out the speech that Nadia and Michelle would present at the conference the next day.

I have become friends with the guys that work at the front desk of our hotel. One of my FAVORITE parts about traveling is becoming friends with locals! I love talking to people who are from the places that are new to me so that I can learn from them and hear about their cultures and traditions, etc. An interesting thing about this situation is that the few people that I have been able to speak with the most and become friends with are from Syria – They had to leave Syria because of the situation there and have been in Iraq for 1-5 months.

Nadia and I ended up staying down in the lobby talking (through Google Translate) to Jodi and Mohammad til 3:00 in the morning. They were teaching us how to say  words in Kurdish and Arabic. We were going through our phones and looking at pictures and asking how to say things. Nadia had some photos of some pretty random animals. She showed them a picture and they looked at it, they then typed into Google and the translation came up, “Is this a goat?” We laughed so hard. We stayed up very late- but it was such a good time. Nadia also said that it was good for her because she was nervous about the panel and presentation the next day so she would have had a hard time sleeping. I think it was totally worth it!



Wed May 14th 

Conference day 2

Nadia and Michelle presented our paper at the conference today! They did a great job!

After the Conference I went to the market with Nadia and Daliah. This was my last chance to go to the market and get presents for my family and some suveniours.  It was incredibly helpful that Daliah knew Kurdish! She helped me navigate through the market and we had a lot of shopping done in an hour – that would have taken me much longer otherwise. Daliah is such a delight! I think I have found a new best friend! I am really glad that she stayed with us! And I am so excited for her to be back in NYC again so we can hang out!

Alex is another new friend who is also affiliated with NYU and has been a big part of planning and putting together the conference. He has been living in Iraq for the past 6 months and plans to be here for about a year.  He hangs out at an Assyrian social club on a weekly basis and invited a bunch of people to go tonight and get a drink and have some food. On the way there we stopped at another little antique/suveniour shop and I got a really pretty ring!

We had a good dinner and a fun time socializing. I could hear some music going on and asked what it was. Someone said that there was a wedding at the building next door. Nadia and I went to check it out – from a distance. We could hear the music. There were children coming out of the building and playing in the front on the steps, and we could kind of see inside that there were people dancing.

We went back down and then a couple more people decided to go up to see the wedding. So 4 of us went up and one guy walked straight up to the doors to look in. There were some people there attending the wedding and they saw all of us and decided to invite us in. The coaxed us and pulled us into the hall to come and be part of the celebration. They asked us to sit down and then placed plates of fruit, sweets and drinks in front of us and invited us to eat. This was a true show of genuine Kurdish hospitality! This is how the people are in Kurdistan! Very warm and friendly and giving! I was introduced to the groom’s father and he introduced me to his wife. She then pointed out her mother and father and a couple of people handed me their babies to hold.

She then asked me if she could take a photograph with me. I felt a little under dressed for the whole occasion. I was in skinny jeans, V-neck shirt and a cardigan. So there I am getting my picture taken with the mother of the groom who is in a sparkly gown– by the wedding photographer.

This is what I get for being the token blonde girl in Iraq.  I get stared at a lot. You know that game, “One of these things is not like the other”…? Well I am for sure the one that is “not like the others” here!

It was the same for me in India and Rwanda. My blonde Hair, Blue eyes and light skin are an obvious sign that there is a foreigner in the midst. People would ask me if I was American – upon this confirmation they would always have a great big grin and say! You are Welcome here! The Kurdish people love Americans and they express so much happiness that we are here.

We didn’t stay at the wedding for long. It was a little awkward - we really didn’t want to crash the party. We said our thanks and goodbye and headed back down to the Assyrian social club.  We stayed for a little longer but needed to head back to the hotel.

On the way home we went and got Kurdish Ice Cream at a little dessert shop. Daliah was raving about it and said that is was a must try! They had all kinds of sweets, and cakes and Baklava!  I asked the man who worked at the shop what one thing and what his favorite dessert was. He gave us some free samples to try. It was all very good!

We got back to the hotel and did some session planning for our workshop tomorrow. Everyone went to bed and I did some packing and started to prepare to go – we check out tomorrow after the conference and will have to drive back to Erbil to catch a flight that is in the middle of the night/early morning (3:30 am).

I usually travel with some thank you cards/stationary. So that I can write notes to people, somehow I forgot to bring some on this trip.  Actually I discovered that I had no paper at all. I really wanted to write a note to my friend Jodi who works the night shift at the front desk. I looked through all of my things- hoping that maybe I would find something that could work. Then I remembered… right before I left I saw a small travel size copy of the Book of Mormon on my bookshelf. I decided to bring it with me just in case. 

I wanted to give Jodi that Book of Mormon. Of course all of the unsurities and negative voices came into my head about why that may not be a good idea. But all of the reassurances came too. I decided that I would tell him, “This book is very important to me, and I want to share it with you because you are my friend.” I wrote a note in the front cover of the small  book and went downstairs to see Jodi. It was probably 12:30 or 1:00 am by the time I got down there. He greeted me with a smile and asked how I was. I told him that I sadly will be leaving tomorrow – but had something for him. 

I asked him if he believes in God- he said yes! I gave him the Book of Mormon. He was grateful for it and told me that he will take it to study along with his other religious books.

Jodi and I ended up talking all night- with the aid of our smart phones and a translator app we talked about home, family, culture, dating, etc. and had a really really great conversation!
I went back to my room at 7am and got ready for the day. I didn’t even lie down. Kind of crazy yes… but it was an important conversation to have and I am grateful for it!


Thursday May 15th

Conference day 3

We took a Taxi to the University- our driver wasn’t the most assuring when it came to directions. We went to the University in a very round about way. But we made it!

Our Workshop today went SO WELL! We had a pretty good turn out – as far as attendance goes. About 20 or so participants. Some were there for part of the time, others where able to sty the whole 90 minutes! We also had a translator for our session. There were some theatre students that came and were able to be a part of our workshop.  

I am very proud of the work that we did!

After our workshop we went to a couple more panels and then had lunch. Brisa and I left conference a little bit early so that we could go to the market and then pack and get ready to go.

I wanted to run back to the market to show Brisa this really cool section that Daliah and I had discovered that Brisa had not seen yet. I also wanted to make an exchange and this was my only chance! I bought a tea set and the vendor gave me the wrong saucers for my cups. We got that sorted and had a nice quick trip back to the market! Mission accomplished! I got the right saucers for my tea cups! Let me know if you would like to come over for some tea friends! I will bust out my new pretty Iraqi tea set!

There was a special closing dinner arranged for the conference tonight. There were certificated handed out- complete in a fancy “University of Duhok” diploma holder.

We went back to the hotel to get our bags and left Duhok at 10:30.
Brisa and I rode in a Cab- we couldn’t fit all of us and all of our bags into the car that Tom and Michelle rented – so we needed more space. Plus this way we were sure to not get lost! Remember the whole no maps/ no GPS / No harry potter dot thing?!
I was so tired! I was in and out of sleep most of the 2.5 hour drive back to Erbil.


Tonight bleeds into the early morning hours of…

Friday May 16th

We Got to Erbil Airport at 1:30am.
Our Flight left at 3:30 am

We Landed in Istanbul at 6:30 am – Tom and Michelle went on their way to catch their next flight to JFK. I had a 4 hour layover and Brisa had an 8 hour layover – so we got to keep each other company until I had to go and catch my connecting flight to Spain.

While we waited we got internet connection and I was able to facetime with my mom and dad (who are in California) and update facebook and send out some texts and emails to let friends and family know that the traveling is going well.

My facebook status update said:

Once again in Istanbul on a layover. This time headed to Granada Spain. I miss Iraq already - my new friends and will always cherish the amazing experiences I had there. #abouttocry #whydoialwayscryinIstanbul

It is hard to explain the emotions that I was feeling during that layover. On the way to Iraq I cried in Istanbul. Because I found myself at the climax of a LOT of emotion.

Parts of those emotions are from the fact that I love people! Because of that part of my personality sometimes I find people that I am able to connect with on a deeper level. When this happens it is really hard to say goodbye, and very hard to leave them! Especially when I do not know what will happen to that relationship once we are apart or when I will see them again. I am filled with a lot of emotions and thoughts – there is a lot of thinking and processing to do!

My flight left Istanbul at 9:40 a.m. and I Landed in Malaga Spain at 1:30 p.m.

It's a 2 hour bus ride to Granada. There is a bus at 16:00 that on the Internet said it was full- I am going to try to get on it. If I cannot then I have a ticket for the 18:30 bus.

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I made it to the airport and waited for the bus to come. Just before 16:00 the bus to Granada came- I asked the driver if I could take this earlier bus – he said that I could not switch… even with paying the difference in the ticket prices.

At this point I just wanted to go! So I just paid the bus fair and got on! It wasn’t very expensive anyway- and it was going to be worth not having to wait!

I arrived in Granada, but I had not had the chance to tell Antonio that I got on the earlier bus. At the bus terminal there was a little computer room that you could pay to use the computer. So I got on for 15 minute and luckily Adam had sent me Antonio’s phone number – I was able to find a pay phone and call him and tell him I was already there!

Antonio was just finishing at school- so his mom and dad came to pick me up and greeted me with big hugs and kisses! We picked up Antonio from school! When he jumped into the car we exchanged hugs and kisses and I started to cry. Oh my goodness! Why am I such a baby!? I told you… SO MANY EMOTIONS! Haha…It is so good to see my Antonio again!

We brought my things to our apartment – HA! Our apartment! YOU GUYS!!! I AM LIVIGN IN SPAIN!!! This is so CRAZY! HAHAHA!!! Adam and Antonio put together my room for me! It is a beautiful apartment and I am so happy to be here!

Antonio’s  family lives just down the street – we walked over for dinner. Silvia and Jesus were there and we all had dinner together! Oh Sweet Spainish – I have a LOT of learning to do!

So YES! I am Here! In SPAIN!!! Ready to get settled in and learn some Spanish! Wish me luck! I will be updating and hopefully adding photographs soon! (at least to facebook) I like these blog posts to have photographs in them SO MUCH MORE than just words!


oxoxox

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